What does it cost to build my Truck, Jeep, or SUV?
This is a wide open question with countless variables. It is best to contact us to consult on your truck, and the lift, tire & wheel combination you want. From there we will put together a formal written proposal for your specific application to the penny on cost. Typically we give our customers three or four proposals with a variety of combinations and narrow down the build specs from there based on your performance requirements and budget. We do not offer "ball park" quotes over the phone, there are far too many variables that go into a specific build and costs change by the setup and specs of the build. Instead, we provide exact costs, in a detailed, formal, written proposal so the cost is exact and the scope of what's involved to complete the setup properly is detailed and documented. This takes time and research to put together.
What is included with your build packages?
Every one of our builds are ALL INCLUSIVE. We want our customers to drive away knowing every detail has been covered. All of our build packages start with an initial phone consultation to get an understanding of your build vision. We'll answer your questions and will have questions ourselves for you that we'll need answered to put together the best possible build package. From there we put together a formal written proposal where we will give you several options for your build; we explain the pros and cons on the setups, the technical aspects of the setups as well as component compatibility, how they will effect your vehicle, what to expect, and include pictures so you can reference what we are describing. Proposals typically range from 10-15 pages of information tailored to your setup. Usually it takes us several days to research, resource, and spec out a build proposal and we put a considerable amount of time into each build setup. We charge a flat fee to produce our proposals; this fee is non refundable and is credited towards the package you choose if you move forward with a build within 7 days of proposal presentation. We include all parts, installation, and all supplies required to complete the job correctly. All suspension systems include a 4 wheel laser alignment and all wheel and tire packages come with new locking lug nuts, new TPMS sensors programmed to the vehicle ('08 and newer vehicles), and mounting and high speed road force balancing. All builds from leveling systems to big suspension lifts include our signature 500 mile complete chassis inspection and re-torqueing of all hardware and components to ensure your new build is broken in properly and is safe for operation after the break in period. We challenge you to find a competitor with a more thorough or complete documented process from start to finish.
Why do you charge for proposals?
We make a substantial commitment and spend a substantial amount of time up front with our prospective clients to identify their needs, truck usage, and goals. We custom tailor our proposals to our client's specific build spec's and provide our clients with detailed information and recommendations in order to make a well informed decision. Our proposals draw from 20+ years of expertise in this industry and substantial time researching and verifying the specs for a particular setup to ensure no details are overlooked. This process comes at a cost. Charging a flat rate fee up front allows us to share that expertise, some of which is proprietary, covers the cost of our research, and ensures we have a commitment from a potential client to work with us. In most cases we spend countless un-billed hours walking clients through the pre-build process, answering questions, and updating specs. We cannot commit any amount of time to anyone who isn't committed to us; we're serious about our builds and if you want to work with us we need to know you're serious as well.
What is your lead time?
Parts lead times and customer volume drive our schedule and vary based on a variety of factors, but on average expect a 2-3 month wait from date of parts order to a build date. This is because each customer gets our undivided attention when their build is in process. We don't rush builds and we don't take on more than we can handle. In some cases we can accommodate tight timelines, however we will not compromise our process. In short, due to the custom nature of this industry and the highly technical aspect of some of our builds, we are a low volume, high quality and attention to detail business. In general we typically take on 1-2 trucks per week, sometimes 3 depending on scope, but that is rare. We are a low volume business, with an intense focus on producing an exceptional finished product through superior customer service and attention to detail.
What is your turn around time once my truck is dropped off?
Most builds are completed over several days. Typically we ask for your truck on a Thursday evening and have it completed and aligned ready for pick up by Tuesday evening. This schedule isn't set in stone and we work with each customer to best accommodate their schedule.
I don't plan on going off road, so I don't need upgraded shocks right?
We get asked this constantly, and we could go on forever about shock technology and the on road advantages of "off road" shocks. Bottom line, the more off road capable a shock and suspension setup, the better it will ride and handle on the road. The suspension system does not know if it is on the Garden State Parkway, if it's on Island Beach State Park, or if it is racing through the Baja desert, it only knows it is cycling up and down at a variety speeds and frequencies. Shocks function by converting kinetic energy (up and down motion) to heat energy via the internal oil and valving on compression and rebound strokes. The bigger the shock, the more oil it holds, the cooler the temperature stays internally. The cooler the temperature, with the apprpriate valving for the vehicle, the better the overall ride. A truck's suspension reacts while racing through the desert no differently than hitting some dips in the road or rolling over railroad tracks, the only thing that varies is the frequency and velocity. There are a variety of suspension setups and shock packages tuned for every truck, from entry level to pure racing. The better the setup, the more it will cost, but the better you can expect the ride on the road. In our opinion there is no such thing as overkill, only greater ride quality.
What size wheels and tires will fit with what lift?
This is probably our most common question. There are many factors that play into this answer and we provide specific size recommendations in our written proposals. We do not go into specifics over the phone. Lift Size, tire size, wheel size and offset/ backspacing specs, as well as suspension components all play a factor into proper fitment. We do not believe in stuffing the biggest tire possible into a lift at the expense of wheel travel, turning radius, and ride quality. Each suspension setup will have a recommended wheel and tire size with specific specs that are tested and proven to fit. Larger tire and wheel combinations may "fit" but you'll likely require trimming the fender wells; Do you want to cut up your $80,000+ truck to fit a tire? For 3/4 and 1 ton trucks a 4.5" lift will fit 35" tires and a 6" will typically fit 37s. On newer model trucks with increased wheel well sizes things change a bit and you can generally fit the next bigger tire sizes on a smaller lift. GM trucks are the outlier because of their square shaped wheel wells; they actually require more lift to fit what is usually a smaller tire.
Bigger tire combinations require increased suspension lifts or the addition of a body lift, and we will work with you to lay out the best combination for your truck. Just because a suspension manufacturer says a size will fit, or someone said it works on a forum doesn't mean it will be fully functional or drive well. All tires have a manufacturer approved wheel width; while some wheels wider than those recommended by the tire manufactuer may work, they are not guaranteed, and we will not guarantee compatibility or warranty those combinations nor will the manufacturer. We focus on functionality, handling, drive-ability, and aesthetics, not about fitting the biggest tire into a lift possible at the expense of actually driving the vehicle. If you're looking to stuff a set of tires into a lift beyond the parameters we've laid out above, or if you come in with the intent of taking the advice of everyone on the forums over ours, we're probably not for you.
Do I need Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensors (TPMS) for my wheel and tire combination?
Yes on some '07 and all '08 and newer vehicles. The Firestone recall in the late 1990s (which was linked to more than 100 deaths from rollovers following tire tread-separation), pushed the United States Congress to legislate the TREAD Act. The Act mandated the use of a suitable TPMS technology in all light motor vehicles (under 10,000 pounds), to help alert drivers of under-inflation events. This act affects all light motor vehicles sold after September 1, 2007. Phase-in started in October 2005 at 20%, and reached 100% for models produced after September 2007. In the United States, as of 2008, all new passenger car models (M1) released must be equipped with a TPMS. We include TPMS in all our wheel and tire combinations for '08 and newer vehicles.
Will the new TPMS sensors integrate to my truck's system? Is there programming required?
This varies by truck manufacturer. We've annotated the most common requirements below:
Ford: Most Ford Sensors need to be reactivated to the vehicle; there is a special tool required to do this along with a sequence that must be followed. 2011-2016 Ford Super Duty's do require the air pressure for the rear tires to be re-programmed in the truck's computer. The computer is looking for 80 psi while most aftermarket tires have a max pressure of 65 psi. This setting must be reduced or the low pressure warning will trigger for the rear tires. We have access to a Ford computer and handle these setting for you before you get your truck back! The 2017+ Super Duty's require this as well however to date Ford does not allow this setting to be changed.
Chevy: Chevy's require their sensor's to be activated with a special tool. We can do this in house, we have the activation tool. Without the activation the low pressure warning will trigger.
Dodge/ Ram/ Jeep: Dodge's/ Ram's/ Jeeps are not supposed to require special programming for sensors to read on any of their trucks, however they've proved to be very problematic when recognizing sensors in aftermarket wheels. We've seen them intermittently lose connectivity with the new sensors then regain the connection without intervention; this is true especially on Ram 1500s. On Ram 2500 or 3500s you must ensure the truck is in the light load mode or a low pressure warning will be triggered. We find there often still needs to be computer intervention with these sensors to ensure 100% connectivity.
Toyota: All Toyota Sensors must be programmed and paired with the vehicle. Most Toyotas have a reset button under the dash which must be utilized in conjunction with a TPMS tool. They can be problematic and sometimes require dealer intervention to read correctly.
Can you change the TPMS system threshold on my truck so I can run a lower pressure without a low pressure warning?
In some cases we can do this with the purchase and installation of aftermarket module. We do not get in involved in Forscan or any other coding style programmers due to liability. We set up our packages for the truck to read the sensors properly; the tire pressure setting you choose to run will ultimately determine whether your pressure light is indicated or not.
Will my speedometer be accurate with bigger tires?
Your speedometer will read slower the bigger in tire size you go. Its usually on the order of 3-5 mph slow but may vary. In order to correct your speedometer additional computer programming is required. Jeeps require the speedometer be corrected and the steering wheel center be programmed when lifted of the ABS system will trigger during turns. We offer speedometer re-programming through the purchase and installation of an aftermarket module.
Do I need to re-gear my truck if I put bigger tires on?
Typically No, however this depends on a few things. What size gears are in your truck now? What size tire are you going to run? What motor is in your truck? What kind of driving do you do? These all play a key role in determining if you should re-gear. Typically a truck going up to 35s or even 37s in some cases are OK without re-gearing. You will lose bottom end pickup and fuel mileage, but will actually gain mileage on the highway. Conversely, if you do gears in the truck after a lift and bigger tires you will have more power down low and will get better mileage around town but will lose mileage on the highway. Its really a system of checks and balances. Again we will talk you through what works best for you and your budget. Re-Gearing will also require computer programming to re-calibrate your speedometer.
I want to level my truck, can you install spacers to do so?
We strongly advise against leveling a truck by sticking spacers on the factory strut assembly. In our professional and personal opinion, the best method of leveling a truck is replacing the strut assembly on an IFS truck, or replacing the coils, springs, and trac bar on a straight axle truck. Stuffing spacers on the factory strut assemblies reduces suspension down travel and risks damaging your factory shocks or creating a rigid ride by over extending the factory shocks. There's no need to degrade the ride of your vehicle to achieve the look you want. Replacing the front struts or coils and shocks with properly engineered replacements will level the vehicle and will offer the look you want, with a ride quality that is far superior to the factory ride. A set of Bilstein, Fox, or King shocks will have you wondering why you drove on factory components for so long as they offer a far superior ride.
How will a lift affect my ride?
If done properly, today's lifts will have minimal effect on your ride quality. In many cases, with the right shock selection and tire/ wheel combination your ride will actually improve. We choose to only sell and install lifts by companies that build complete kits and offer nitrogen charged shocks. For those with the means we offer premium suspension lifts from The Carli Suspension and King Racing Shocks upgrades on many common kits. King also offers factory replacement shocks from their OEM Performance Series. We also offer Fox Racing and Bilstein shocks. Most budget lift company's leave out key components that will degrade your handling or cause vibrations at speed in order to save a few dollars. We do not sell nor do we install these incomplete lifts as they will only cause you problems down the road and cost you more money than if your lift were done complete the first time. If we wouldn't install it on our own personal trucks, we will not sell it to you or install it on your truck. Remember, when it comes to suspension lifts and shocks, you always get what you pay for.
Why do you insist on a post installation 500 mile checkup of all hardware?
That's simple. SAFETY. Modifying your vehicle in many cases is an in-depth process and involves a lot of new hardware. During the first 500 miles, this hardware experiences tremendous load changes and will stretch and settle. New springs will settle as well, and may affect the vehicle's 4 wheel alignment. In order to ensure all hardware is tightened to specification and proper alignment it is imperative that all hardware is checked at the 500 mile mark. New wheels require re-torquing of the lug nuts at the 100 mile mark as the aluminum will heat, cool, and settle. In many cases other load bearing accessories such as power steps or racks may also require adjustment. Failure to meet these requirements will result in forfeiture of all warranties and could result in catastrophic failure of your lift, wheels, tires, or a combination of the aforementioned. It is the customer's responsibility to schedule and keep their checkup appointment.
Will you sell or install wheel spacers if my current tire and wheel combination does not clear my lift?
No. We believe in doing things the right way or not at all. If you're looking to save a few dollars to get by, we are not the shop for you. Wheel spacers are illegal in the state of NJ and are not safe to put on any vehicle, especially on 1/2 ton trucks and up. While they may offer a "cheap" way to clear wheels and tires, they cause a variety of safety concerns that we will not assume risk on. For starters, they will, in many cases cause vibration at cruise speed. Your wheels and tires are balanced to spin at high velocity as a "system". Adding a foreign object to that system throws off the balance and vibration occurs. Secondly, adding spacers changes the center of gravity, and puts a tremendous load on your factory studs, hubs, ball joints, and axles/ half shafts. These components will wear exponentially faster, and will eventually fail on trucks 1/2 ton and larger. Utilizing wheel spacers will void all warranties on your hub assemblies, ball joints, axles, half shafts, wheels, and all other related components. While we guarantee all our work, we will not warranty ANY failed components where wheel spacers have been installed. We do not recommend them and they are not approved for street use by the NJDMV.
Can you install parts I already purchased elsewhere?
No. We do not install customer supplied parts for a variety of reasons, namely liability, insurance, and warranty issues that may arise. We feel it most important to consult our customers through the process of selecting a suspension for their vehicle from the initial "what should I get?" to installation. We also find it valuable to our customers to be able to offer assist in the event a warranty issue arises (it does happen). We can't do either bringing parts off the street, and in our experience it degrades the value in the service and expertise we offer.
Why won't you install parts I purchased elsewhere?
In short, insurance regulations, warranty qualifications, and liability issues prevent us from installing customer supplied parts.
I can get the products online for REALLY CHEAP. Can you compete?
We appreciate that you feel you've found a great deal online, we've had many customers feel the same way. What they've found is many websites hide fees until you checkout, specific items required for a complete job are not included, and that our prices are equal to or better than anything found online anyway! Most manufacturers have Minimum Advertised Price policies for their authorized dealers the likes of which we strictly adhere to. Many manufacturers with these policies send out weekly or monthly blacklists of dealers who broke the policy and have been barred from selling that particular brand. Items purchased in violation MAP also void all warranties associated with the product. We prefer to be backed by the manufacturer in lieu of saving a couple dollars; it may cost you in the long run.
I got a great deal on wheels tires, will you install them when my lift is done?
Yes we will, but we feel there's no need to purchase elsewhere! We have great purchasing power from all the big wheel and tire manufacturers. We offer free mounting and balancing on all wheel and tire packages equal to or better than anything found online and we'll handle the fitment, receiving, and inspecting of the products.
If you must purchase your wheel and tire package elsewhere, unfortunately we cannot guarantee proper fitment, nor can we do anything to help in the event your product is received damaged. Additional alterations may be required to the vehicle to fit the wheels and tires you purchased which will incur additional costs. The same rules apply to wheels and tires as for customer supplied parts as described above.
What is your warranty?
We guarantee our labor for 30 days months or 3,000 miles on all suspension work; 15 days on any electrical work. We also proudly support every manufacturer's factory warranty on their products; if you purchased a part from us and it is deemed defective within the manufacturer's warranty, we will gladly work to get it replaced for you. Please note, most manufacturers will not cover the labor costs incurred to replace defective parts. We will warranty labor on defective parts up to 30 days so long as the customer operated the vehicle within its limitations, followed all recommendations by our team and the manufacturer, and adhered to our 100 and 500 mile re-torquing regimen. This includes but is not limited to: Checking lug nuts for tightness on new wheels at 100 miles and re-tightening as needed, scheduling and attending an appointment with GennUSA Built Trucks, LLC to have all modified components and hardware inspected and re-torqued as necessary after 500 miles from modifications. This does NOT include customers who make modifications on their own after work is complete or customers whom fail to adhere to the 100 and 500 mile checks. Any post installation modifications performed to the vehicle by anyone other than GennUSA Built Trucks, LLC voids all parts and labor warranties. Parts and Labor Warranties offered by GennUSA Built Trucks, LLC are non-transferable and are only valid for the original owner of the vehicle when the work was performed. If the vehicle changes ownership, all warranties are void. IT IS ULTIMATELY THE CUSTOMER'S RESPONSIBILITY TO ENSURE PROPER MAINTENANCE AND PERIODIC CHECKS OF THE AFTERMARKET WORK ARE PERFORMED. FAILURE TO COMPLY WILL RESULT IN THE IMMEDIATE FORFEITURE OF ANY AND ALL WARRANTY'S ON PARTS OR LABOR FROM Gennusa Built Trucks, LLC OR THE ASSOCIATED AFTERMARKET PART.
Will modifying my truck void my Manufacturer's Warranty?
Legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle (per the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C)) . For best results, consider working with performance-oriented dealerships with a proven history of working with customers. If your vehicle manufacturer fails to honor emission/warranty claims, contact EPA at (202) 260-2080 or www.epa.gov. If federal warranty protection is denied, contact the FTC at (202) 326-3128 or www.ftc.gov.